Chronicle 195-196

Chronicle 195-196 (Thursday, December 31 2015) Vertical tasting of château Trotanoy à Pomerol from 1994 to 2010 with Evangile 1990, Vieux Château Certan 2010, Eglise Clinet 2008, Clos l'Eglise 2004, Hosanna 1999 as intruders. + Domaine de l'A 2011, La Fleur de Bouard 2011, Château Margaux 2005, Mouton Rothschild 2012 et 2008 The tasting took place blind and in public on 24th November 2015. Contrary to the usual practice, the wines were not decanted. I decided to open the bottles a little more than eight hours before. With respect to the aromatic style of the wine, I suspect that this did not provide enough air: some of the wines were better the following day. Trotanoy has a creamy nose, which is very pleasant when aromas of fresh fruit and oak mingle together. As it ages, a stronger smell appears, which was even unpleasant in the last series. Overall, classier hints of liquorice and violets reappear when the wine airs in the glass or after simply pouring it from the first glass into a second. So don't be shy about decanting the older vintages, even just a few minutes before serving them. Taste them before just to check. About the cedar smell The smell of cedar features more in the aromatic palette of left-bank wines made primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon – especially the old Medocs – than in the Merlot-based right bank wines. At least this is what is taught in the tasting schools. However, I'm not convinced it's a reliable theory, because I also find this eminent cedar aroma in mature right-bank vintages. Could it be a characteristic of aged Cabernet Franc? At Trotanoy there is very little, no more than 10%, if that. For several years now, I no longer connect the cedar smell with grape varieties, but with the ageing of the wines. This very pleasant smell appears with another on its heels, that of curry, which is a sign of greater age. For connoisseurs, who practice blind tasting, this similarity in the way both right- and left-bank wines age often makes it impossible to tell them apart on the nose. The Trotanoy palate The overriding characteristic in this tasting is the total absence of any perception of tannin or roughness, which gives this wine an elegant mouthfeel that is very enjoyable. Trotanoy often caresses the palate from the very onset, whatever the vintage. Only the great years or the finest achievements are also big, which always becomes apparent between the mid-palate and the finish, and rarely on the attack as you might expect with so much Merlot. This is a recurring tasting feature and as such defines the style of this wine; so much so that even the less reputed vintages appear very good. They hold on to and preserve a hedonistic character, a point worthy of note. Vineyard area: 7.2 hectares (17.8 acres). Planting density: 6,200 vines per hectare. Blend: 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Clayey gravel soil. A second wine has been made since 2009, called Espérance de Trotanoy. _________________________________________________________ 1st series Trotanoy 1995 16,5 // 92 Average score from 5 tastings: 16,75 // 93 Last score in 2007: 16,5 // 92 Logo on the cork : RB Dark ,colour, good intensity and slightly aged. Animal, fruity and a little heavy on the nose. Best to decant it. Creamy hint. Silky and very, very fruity on the palate, developing to become flavoursome and fragrant between the middle and the finish. Hints of violets and liquorice. Standard body and length. Enjoyable overall. Drink now and up to 2025. Trotanoy 1996 16,25 // 91 Average score from 4 tastings: 16,5 // 92 Last score in 2009: 16,5 // 92 Logo on the cork : CRL Dark ,colour, good intensity and slightly aged. Fruity nose, quite aged. Reasonably aromatic. Hint of cedar. Silky on the attack, before becoming melting with an elegant feel. Lovely taste of truffles in the middle. Standard body. Elegant tannins. Hint of cedar. Drink now and up to 2022. Trotanoy 1990 16 // 90 Average score from 1 tastings: 17 // 94 Last score in 1991: 17 // 94 Logo on the cork : RB Aged colour. Fruity nose, quite aged. Creamy hint. Soft on the attack. Standard body and a little fluid. Sappy and almost mineral finish. Could be fleshier. Drink now and up to 2020. Evangile 1990 15,75 // 89 Average score from 6 tastings: 16,75 // 93 Last score in 2013: 17 // 94 Logo on the cork : no indication Aged colour. Fruity nose, quite aged. Reasonably aromatic. Hint of cedar. Light on the palate, still fruity, but monolithic. There are obviously differences between bottles of the same vintage when you consider the previous scores. Drink now and up to 2020. _________________________________________________________ 2nd series Trotanoy 1998 17,5 // 95 Average score from 8 tastings: 17 // 94 Last score in 2012: 16,25 // 91 Logo on the cork : CRL Dark ,bright colour, good intensity and slightly aged. Superb, very aromatic, elegant, fresh, smooth, fruity nose with a hint of vanilla. Very silky attack, then the wine becomes subtly lush and flavoursome with lots of taste. It melts after the middle and lingers on for a very nice long, sappy, delicate finish, reminiscent of Cabernet Franc. Fine-grained tannin. Impossible to spit out. Drink now and up to 2035. Trotanoy 2000 16 // 90 Average score from 8 tastings: 17,5 // 95 Last score in 2010: 17,5 // 95 Logo on the cork : CRL Dark colour, slightly aged. fruity and a little heavy on the nose. Best to decant it. Creamy hint. The attack is silky. It becomes caressing and very enjoyable before plunging on the finish. A hint of hay alludes to Merlot that was not ripe enough. Disappointing for this vintage. There are obviously differences between bottles of the same vintage when you consider the previous scores. Trotanoy 2001 16,25 // 91 Average score from 5 tastings: 17,5 // 95 Last score in 2010: 16,75 // 93 Logo on the cork : CRL Dark ,bright colour, good intensity. Fruit and cocoa on the nose, much better after being swirled, when it takes on a fresh hint of violets. Delicate attack, it develops to become slim and flavoursome with freshness and fine-grained tannins. Medium vigour. Hints of liquorice and violets as it lingers. There are differences between bottles of the same vintage. Drink now and up to 2025. Trotanoy 2003 15,5 // 88 Average score from 5 tastings: 16,75 // 93 Last score in 2010: 15,75 // 89 Logo on the cork : CRL This wine was charming until 2008. Since then it seems like it is plunging. Here the nose smelt of resin and herbal tea. Light on the palate. Should have been drunk. _________________________________________________________ 3rd series Trotanoy 2005 17 // 94 Average score from 7 tastings: 17,75 // 96 Last score in 2015: 15,5 // 88 Logo on the cork : CB Good news! This wine is a lot better than the bottle tasted for Report 76 on how the 2005s are ageing. Bright and intense colour. Fresh fruit on the nose with a hint of plum. Very pretty attack that is especially fruity, then it grows very fragrant with standard body that I have tasted with more vigour. Meticulous tannins. Very good length. 2020-2040. Trotanoy 2009 16,75 // 93 Average score from 3 tastings: 18,5 // 97 Last score in 2012: 18,5 // 97 Logo on the cork : JL Dark ,bright colour. Fruity, creamy nose. Tender, fruity, flavoursome and fragrant on the palate, but yet again medium bodied. The finish does stand out with its carefully crafted tannins. This vintage may have closed up again. 2022 – 2040. Trotanoy 2010 18,5 // 97 Average score from 2 tastings: 18,5 // 97 Last score in 2012: 18,5 // 97 Logo on the cork : CB Hail the overall winner! Lovely dark, intense, young colour. Intense, elegant, pure, fruity and subtle on the nose. Very pretty, lush attack, growing to become full (at last!), especially fruity, flavoursome and fully constituted with body and a brilliant mid-palate. It ends up with a classy, long, multilayered finish in which its softness masks its vigour. 2022-2060. Vieux Château Certan 2010 18 // 96 Average score from 2 tastings: 19,25 // 98 Last score in 2012: 19,5 // 99 Logo on the cork : A in a circle Very young, lovely intense colour. Fruity, blackberry and fresh on the nose. Pretty wood. Lovely lush attack. It grows very, very fruity, dense and deep on the mid-palate. Complex flavours of ripe fruit and violets. Very flavoursome. It ends up long and powerful, but this finish is a little firm. It remains to be seen if the smoothness that characterised its youth will return. 2022 – 2060. _________________________________________________________ 4th series Trotanoy 2006 16,5 // 92 Average score from 3 tastings: 16,5 // 92 Last score in 2010: 16,5 // 92 Logo on the cork : JL Dark colour, slightly aged. Fruity and a little heavy on the nose. Best to decant it. Creamy hint. Silky, smooth and fruity on the palate with a slightly meaty note. It bounces back on the finish and ends up flavoursome with standard body and length. Very pleasant. 2017 – 2035. Trotanoy 2007 17 // 94 Average score from 3 tastings: 16,5 // 92 Last score in 2010: 16,5 // 92 Logo on the cork : JL Dark colour, slightly aged. Best to decant it. The fruit displays nice consistency on the palate, which even turns into a refined feel after the middle. Sappy and fragrant on the finish. A pleasant surprise. Drink now and before 2025. Trotanoy 2008 17,5 // 95 Average score from 2 tastings: 17,5 // 95 Last score in 2011: 17,75 // 96 Logo on the cork : JL Very young, lovely intense colour. Intense, elegant, fruity, fresh and ripe at the same time on the nose. Hints of vanilla and distinction. Very attractive attack. It grows to fill the mouth with a refined feel and takes over the mid-palate, multilayered and with lots of vibrancy in the flavour. Especially aromatic, a tad woody, it finishes long, subtle and with depth. 2020 - 2040. Eglise Clinet 2008 17 // 94 Average score from 7 tastings: 18,25 // 96 Last score in 2015: 18 // 96 Logo on the cork : CB Very young, lovely, dark, bright and intense colour. Medium intensity, fruity and fresh on the nose, but with a hint of linden. Very lush attack, then it starts to melt and becomes richly supple, big and multilayered with a taste of truffle. Long and flavoursome on the finish, but with slightly noticeable tannins. 2020 – 2040. _________________________________________________________ 5th series Trotanoy 2011 16 // 90 Average score from 1 tasting: 16,5 // 92 Last score in 2012: 16,5 // 92 Logo on the cork : CB Dark colour, slightly aged. Fruity nose. Hints of cocoa and violets. Delicate, melting, fragrant and pleasant on the palate, but with medium body and length. This wine seems to be developing fast. Drink now and up to 2025. Trotanoy 2002 16,75 // 93 Average score from 4 tasting: 16,75 // 93 Last score in 2010: 17 // 94 Logo on the cork : CRL Dark colour, slightly aged. Fruity and a little heavy on the nose. Best to decant it. Pretty attack, then it melts becoming very fruity and flavoursome with standard body and a sappy finish with a hint of liquorice and quite long. A pleasant surprise. Drink now and before 2025. Trotanoy 2004 16,75 // 93 Average score from 4 tastings: 16 // 90 Last score in 2014: 15 // 87 Logo on the cork : JL There are differences between bottles of the same vintage! Dark colour, slightly aged. A little heavy on the nose. Best to decant it. Elegantly lush attack. The wine becomes succulent and flavoursome with standard girth and fine tannins. Good sappy length. Drink now and before 2025. Clos l'Eglise 2004 15,5 // 88 Average score from 9 tastings: 16,5 // 92 Last score in 2015: 15,5 // 88 Logo on the cork : AL Dark colour, slightly aged. Fruity and a little heavy on the nose. Best to decant it. Fills the mouth on the attack, developing to become fruity, flavoursome and rich, before ending up a little dry as it lingers. Standard length. 2019 – 2035. _________________________________________________________ 6th series Trotanoy 1994 15 // 87 Average score from 4 tastings: 15,25 // 87 Last score in 2007: 14,5 // 86 Logo on the cork: RB This bottle initially appeared corked. On tasting it again the following day, this was no longer the case. Tender on the palate with medium body and no sharpness. Coming to the end of its life. Trotanoy 1997 15 // 87 Average score from 4 tastings: 14 // 85 Last score in 2010: 13 // 81 Logo on the cork: CRL Fruity nose, but also smelling of curry and cedar against a creamy background. Fruity, pleasant and flavoursome, but light on the palate. Should have been drunk. Hosanna 1999 15 // 87 Average score from 6 tastings: 15,75 // 89 Last score in 2013: 14,5 // 86 Logo on the cork: CRL This wine initially seemed hard and rough on the palate. When I tasted it again the following day, these faults had disappeared. The wine was pleasant, but light. This first vintage has a very uneven tasting record. Since 2009, when it was brilliant, this has been the third bottle that I have tasted and found a lot plainer. Needs to be drunk now. Trotanoy 1999 15 // 87 Average score from 5 tastings: 16,25 // 91 Last score in 2010: 16,25 // 91 Logo on the cork: an upside down T This wine initially seemed hard and rough on the palate. Tasted again the following day, it was fruitier and cleaner. However, there is no depth on the palate. Drink now and up to 2020. _________________________________________________________ To finish … Domaine de l'A 2011 15 // 87 A previous tasting showed this to be a little dry on the finish. This time it was more enjoyable, still fruity, smooth, but light. Drink now and up to 2020. La Fleur de Bouard 2011 15,75 // 89 Young, lovely intense colour. Fruity, pure and ripe on the nose. It fills the mouth, and is richly supple, flavoursome and even long. A pretty wine that is starting to mature. 2017 – 2027. Margaux 2005 19 // 98 Last June I found a slightly sharp hint on the finish, which I didn't like. This bottle is not at all the same, even though it comes from the same case. Grand, multilayered nose of truffle against a background of coffee and smoke. Superb attack, then the wine immediately becomes melting with a classy texture and lots of flavours. The second part on the palate is a tad firm, but it has complex, impressive length. 2025-2060. Mouton Rotshchild 2012 16,75 // 93 You can't fail to pick this one out with its smoky toasted hint! Like too many 2012s in the Medoc, this wine lacks vigour on the palate, even if it offers a lot of fruit and taste. Note that decanting it makes the wine harder and strengthens the tannins on the finish. 2019-2032. Mouton Rotshchild 2008 18 // 96 Very subtly toasted on the nose, which is elegant and fruity with hints of vanilla and spice, and vigorous. Very nicely crafted on the palate, this wine is both big and slim with noticeable presence on the mid-palate and fine-grained tannins. It has bearing and taste. Note that decanting it makes it hard on the finish; this vintage is closing up again and moving towards a more austere expression. 2024 – 2040. This is the last Chronicle of the year. I'll be in touch again around the 20th of January. Enjoy the end of year celebrations and get a real kick out of sharing your finest bottles! Happy reading JM Quarin ________________________________________________________________ @Copyright This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin is shown as the Copyright holder.

2015 Chronicles

Chronicle 195-196

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